- How To Use Arctic Freeze Refrigerant
- Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions Pdf
- Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions Manual
- Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions Online
- Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions
- Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions Diagram
Find out how to recharge car A/Cs easily and affordably with recharge kits from Arctic Freeze®, Big Chill®, EZ Chill®, Sub-Zero® and other top auto A/C repair brands. Once needle makes it anywhere in green zone of the gauge, charging is complete. Do not try to get it to the highest part of the green zone or you risk overcharging. Remove hose from service port and replace plastic cap when finished. Store any unused refrigerant in a cool, dry place, with charging hose securely attached to can. Interdynamics gbm-4 -134a air conditioning pro heavyduty charging hose red tek refrigerant recharge kit #313 (step by stepinstructions included in kit) kit.Interdynamics Arctic Freeze Refrigerant W/ Reusable Trigger #AF-2.R134 CHARGING INSTRUCTIONS CHARGING R134AINSTRUCTIONS R410A.
Artic Freeze Recharge Kit with UV Dye and Pen Light. Buy Interdynamics AFK-12 Arctic Freeze Auto Air Conditioning Smart Charge Recharge Kit - Pack of 1 Now. I have never charged an ac system and I found this very easy to use. I have a 1996 Ford E150 Van. I bought this charge kit and the InterDynamics RLS-134 13oz. Refrigerant R134a with Leak. Use a recharge kit with a sealant to repair small leaks. You can spend more than $1,000 trying to find and repair a small leak, so it’s often better to use a product that contains a sealant. This will help your system hold its recharge longer, as the refrigerant won’t leak out as quickly.
It's going to be summer soon, and in many parts of the world, things are going to be heating up. Make sure your A/C is running at its best. If the AC isn't quite as cool as it used to be, the solution might be as simple as recharging the system. You can do it without even getting under the car or popping the hood!
Time Required:
30 minutes to 2 hours
How To Use Arctic Freeze Refrigerant
Tools Needed:
Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions Pdf
Procedure:Note: The A/C system is under high pressure. Also, while R134a isn't as bad for the environment as the older R12, there is still a heavy fine for venting R134a into the atmosphere. You should never take apart your A/C system without proper training and refrigerant recovery equipment. Wear protective glasses at all times while servicing your A/C. Also, you will be working under or near the car while it is running. Please observe all safety precautions and refer to our disclaimer on the front page.Initial troubleshooting
If you have access to a thermometer, run your A/C on high with recirculate, and leave the thermometer stuck in one of the vents. After driving around for a while, the air coming out should probably be between 40*F and 50*F unless it's very hot outside. If the air coming out is much warmer than this, your A/C is probably not functioning properly.
With the car running and A/C on Max, pop the hood and listen for or watch the A/C compressor pulley. It has a clutch, so the center of the pulley may spin intermittently. It should start and spin for 30 seconds or longer.
If after 90 seconds it never spins, make sure your A/C is turned on. If it spins for just a few seconds, stops, then starts again after a few seconds, it is short cycling. Either of these could be caused by low refrigerant levels. There may be a leak or something more serious at fault. You may try recharging the A/C system with a leak-indicator additive refrigerant. See advanced troubleshooting information at the end of this article for more information.
Pressure test and recharge
1) Get some tools and supplies together.
The Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit, made by Interdynamics, contains 2 fairly large containers of R134a Refrigerant, one with UV dye, as well as a trigger-actuated refrigerant dispenser nozzle that has an integrated pressure gauge. To top it off, this kit also came with a UV-emitting LED pen-light, which makes the UV dye extremely visible to the naked eye without any need for special UV glasses. This kit is available at most auto-parts stores, and the dispenser nozzle and gauge are re-useable, and fit most R134a canisters. You'll also need the other tools mentioned above. If the A/C recharge kit requires assembly, follow the instructions that come with the kit.
2) With a Torx T30 driver, un-fasten the front part of the wheel well liner on the passenger side of the car.
3) With a Philips head screwdriver, un-fasten the 2 body snaps holding the wheel well liner. Then let the wheel well liner fall out of the way and rest on the tire.
4) Locate the Low-pressure A/C recharge port, which is on top of the reciever dryer (metal canister).
5) Attach the hose to the service port and examine the pressure. I've been told that while the car is off, a rule of thumb is that the pressure should be about the same as the ambient temperature in Fahrenheit. If it's 80 degrees outside, the pressure at this service port should be somewhere around 80 PSI.
6) Start the car and run the A/C on high with recirculation as shown below. This will make sure that the A/C pump is running as hard as possible. If the A/C compressor isn't running (you can usually hear it), the pressure may read high. If the A/C compressor never starts, or if it's short-cycling, the readings could be off.
7) If the system needs recharging, start adding refrigerant to the system per the instructions that came with the recharge kit. For this Interdynamics kit, you simply read the pressure, then momentarily hold the trigger down to add regrigerant. Release the trigger, and check the pressure again.
8) Once the pressure looks right, replace the plastic body snaps and torx screw that hold the wheel well liner in, and take the car for a drive with the A/C Cranked. If all went well, it should be nice and cool!
Advanced Troubleshooting
Once complete, you may want to check the A/C components for leaks; especially if your A/C seems to gradually become less effective. If you filled up with a UV-Dye refrigerant, you simply use a blacklight such as the pen light that comes with this kit, and shine it on all A/C the components that you can access from under the car and under the hood, looking for the telltale bright yellow glow. The dye is harder to spot in daylight, so you may wait until the evening or pull into a dim garage to examine some of the brighter areas of the A/C System. The service port will naturally have some dye on it after feeding dye into the system, so I've used it as an example to show what the dye looks like under U/V. Dye on the service port is usually benign. If in doubt, clean the U/V dye off and drive around for a while longer, and see if the dye returns. The most common places for leaks are at unions and connectors, and from the A/C compressor itself. Check those areas thoroughly.
If there are any small leaks, you may try buying a canister of compressor-safe A/C leak sealer. This can usually be added to your system the same way you recharge it, so you shouldn't need to buy another hose if you bought a system like the one I used. If you encounter a large, hissing leak, or if your leak persists after adding stop-leak, you should see a professional mechanic.
There is a high-pressure service port under the hood (covered with a plastic cap, near the radiator). A high pressure gauge hooked up to this port, combined with the low pressure guage in the recharge kit, can point out a failure with the expansion valve or the compressor. These high-pressure gauges use a different size of connector, and are not usually sold with the 'do-it-yourself' style A/C recharge kits. If you get one though, you should be able to watch the high pressure rise and the low pressure fall when the compressor kicks on. When the compressor is not running, the two gauges should start to equalize after a little while.
There are components of the A/C System (both electrical and mechanical) that don't leak when they stop working. There is also quite a bit of A/C plumbing and several components inside the car that can't be easily tested with dye. U/V dye can't troubleshoot all the problems! Here is a very small symptom chart with possible problems listed. Most of these problems require professional service, however.
Compressor never turns on:
* A/C Not running
-- Make sure fan is on HIGH, temperature selector is turned all the way to COLD, and that the A/C and recirculate light indicators are on (recirc doesn't work in defog mode)
* Electrical connector to compressor clutch is disconnected, or the circuit is bad (short/open/blown fuse)
-- Check connectors, fuses, and wiring for the compressor
* Refrigerant Pressure is too low
-- Check refrigerant pressure, add if needed
* A/C Pressure sensor, or the wiring to it is damaged or disconnected.
-- Visually inspect wiring going to the sensor (on my Focus, it's near the reciever/dryer, a 'T' coming off the A/C hard line)
-- Check pressure sensor with a continuity tester or ohm meter, if circuit is open but system pressure is okay, the pressure switch may be faulty.
-- If switch tests okay, make sure its connector is plugged in firmly to the wiring harness.
-- May require a mechanic
* A/C Compressor clutch mechanism has failed
-- See a professional mechanic
Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions Manual
Compressor short-cycles (on and off very quickly):
* Refrigerant Pressure is too low
-- Check refrigerant pressure, add if needed
* A/C Pressure sensor, or the wiring to it is damaged
-- Visually inspect wiring going to the sensor (it's near the reciever/dryer, a 'T' coming off the A/C hard line)
* Expansion valve damaged
-- See a professional mechanic
* Compressor damaged
-- See a professional mechanic
Compressor is running but pressure stays very high
* Refrigerant pressure too high (overfilled)
-- See a professional mechanic. DO NOT VENT THE A/C LINES!
* Expansion valve damaged
-- See a professional mechanic
* Compressor damaged
-- See a professional mechanic
Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions Online
Compressor is running, pressure is good, but the system is not blowing cool air
* Temperature control malfunction
-- Check the HVAC temperature knob, the cables going to it, and the other end of the cable down in the center console in the driver's side foot well.
--These components should move when you change the temperature selector. If not, a cable may have become disconnected or may have broken. Re-attach or replace as needed
* Frozen or blocked evaporator
-- See a professional mechanic
Blower fan does not run or only runs on certain settings
* Blown fuse
-- Check the HVAC Fan fuse (see owner's manual)
* Damaged HVAC fan switch (common failure)
-- Test the switch with a multimeter, replace if needed
* Burned up HVAC fan resistor
-- Test the resistor going to the HVAC fan, replace if needed
As you can see, it's worth noting that mobile A/C service can be a very complex task, and quite often requires the use of expensive diagnostic equipment. HVAC technicians are usually licensed to handle refrigerants properly. They're also trained to troubleshoot and repair a whole variety of problems with air conditioner systems and they have all the right tools for the job. A lot of times a pair of cheap gauges, a blacklight and a kitchen thermometer simply don't cut it. Leaks inside the cabin usually require an expensive refrigerant detector (often called a 'sniffer'). This is only one of many specialty tools that the pros use. Air conditioner systems are also very expensive, so if you're in doubt or worried about damaging something, take it to a pro.
Please enable JavaScript to view the comments powered by Disqus.comments powered by Disqus- Easy to use gauge that compensates for ambient temperatures for precise air conditioning charging
- Color coded light and sound indicators for simple, accurate charging
- Ergonomic trigger handle
- Push and lock quick connector for fast and easy charging
- Works with all R-134a air conditioning systems
But always use an additional 2 -4 second squeeze in between the 15 second fills to measure and see if it needs more freon added. I have two of these units in different locations and will have to play with these instructions.
I felt comfortable with the Arctic Freeze Freon Fill kit with guage and UV leak detector and penlight which was simple and worked well. I found no leak. Freon level set and AC blowing cold. :)
Interdynamics AFK-12 Arctic Freeze Auto Air Conditioning Smart Charge Recharge Kit Pack of 1.
Arctic Freeze Recharge Kit Instructions
Artic Freeze Recharge Kit with UV Dye and Pen LightI have never charged an ac system and I found this very easy to use. I have a 1996 Ford E150 Van. I bought this charge kit and the InterDynamics RLS-134 13oz. Refrigerant R134a with Leak Sealer. My low pressure port was right up front (if you don't know where yours is, just Google your car make and model AC system). You just start your car, turn on your AC to max, screw the can into the receptacle, connect it to your low pressure port, press the test button and wait. It will show 'low Charge' if your system is low. Shake the can and press the trigger for about 15 seconds. Press the test button again, and repeat the process until the test shows green 'charged'. I needed two cans for my van to reach full charge, and it has been 5 weeks with COLD air still blowing. I love it!The first clue you should be aware of since my experience with this Charger is fully explained in the first Troubleshooting Guide's FAQ: 'ISSUE/CONDITION Green light does not light after adding 2+ cans (more than 24 OZ) of R-134a refrigerant (only White Light lit); POSSIBLE CAUSE AC System Leak OR TXV A/C System with rapidly cycling compressor; REMEDIES/ACTION Check for leaking oil on refrigerant lines & A/C components. Seek Professional Help. Check vent temperature. If temperature cold, stop charging.' This last sentence is in my opinion the first clue that this Charges isn't so SMART. I order it simply because I wanted an easy way to check systems and to dispense refrigerant. Was I sadly disappointed. Both vehicles I own, a 97 Merc and an 07 PT Cruiser which what I believe have perfectly working A/C systems failed. The Charger would only register the White Light -Low Charge. After connecting a can of R-134a refrigerant I found the Charger's connecting tube almost to short to allow a can of refrigerant to be held correctly. I also found that trying to charge the systems of both vehicles that little if any refrigerant was dispensed after 15+ minutes on each vehicle by squeezing the unit's trigger in 15-second increments. Little if any of the fluid was dispensed since the can still seemed full even though some fluid must have because the can of refrigerant did get cooler on certain tries. I know that both car's cooling temperature here in central Texas blows cold air down to 45-50 degrees since I keep a thermometer on the air vents. I should therefore know that both systems in these vehicles work efficiently and correctly and the Charger simply does not live up to it's advertisement. I just wish I had weighed the Charger and can of refrigerant on my postal scale before connecting it to the A/C system so I could later weight it again to ascertain just how much fluid was dispensed, if any. If you should purchase this Charger be aware that the BLACK button is the 'On and Off'. I didn't read anywhere that this button was anything but 'power' which is printed on the device -at first I expected the button to glow or something. I would not recommend this device.I purchased this product to check the charge level on a 98 Pontiac Bonneville and 2004 Chrysler Town and Country. I figured that since it is a computerized 'smart' unit, that also measures outside ambient temperature, I would not have any trouble. Well, after dropping $44 at Advance Auto here is my experience.
Firstly, Reading Is Fundamental. For those born in the mid to late 60's you may remember the RIF campaign. When I took the first measurements with the unit it read 'low charge'. I ran the check three times for verification. I was about to go pick up some R134a when I notice something on the end of the blue quick connector tube. It read 'push to engage'. I went back to the low side service port and using my thumb.....'Pushed to Engage'. There was an audible 'click' sound which confirmed you were solidly connected to the low side port.
Secondly, the blue hose could be another six to eight inches longer. If the low side service port is located low next to compressors, radiators, etc. you may have a hard time recharging the A/C per the instructions. The R134a can must be held as upright as possible when recharging A/C. Failure to do so can cause liquid refrigerant to drain into the smart-charge thus causing the trigger to stick. Depending upon where the low side port is located, you may have to get underneath the vehicle.
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